How To Animate an 80s Anime Ship

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Ota Bot : See Otaking's animation more often for only a buck on the 24/7 live Discord chat. Regularly updated animations, scenes and references: https://www.patreon.com/otaking77077

EckhartsLadder : Amazing dude, so cool to see how you make your art

Spown : Local man tries to save anime from his backyard! The anime industry doesn't care.

Mokang Beats : This level of patience isn't a virtue..... it's a superpower

Tsai AG-w : for people who think _just_ reduce frame rate to make 3D looks more like 2D *That's totally wrong* The main difference between 3D and 2D animation is 3D animation is a projection of 3D space but there's no projection in 2D, it's just animator trying to mimic perspective in a 2D space in other word, perspective in 2D animation is not 100% accurate but it looks fluidity due to how inbetween is created animator can deform object a little on paper or adjust timing on exposure sheet to compensate low frame rate, creating a fluidity animation in 3D animation, perspective is 100% accurate but looks laggy in low frame rate because object is following an already set up path. without additional timing adjustment, a low frame rate 3D animation will looks like a laggy computer game driving you mad ---- please do check "12 basic principles of animation" about how to create an animation

mazimadu : You could have just made one SUPER DETAILED drawing and then PANNED that across the screen. That always works!

My life in a nutshell : Sir! We lost the frontal lens flare generators! Damn it Sulu! Otaking, switch to manual! Yes Sir! *"Cracks Knuckles"*

Ryukachoo : Idea; parameterize your model so it's dimensions can warp very slightly from frame to frame, it'll give that kind of organic motion to old animation where the ship isn't drawn exactly the same every frame. Notice how your hand drawn details seem to wobble and vibrate as it wooshes pass, you'd be programmatically replicating that with the while model

Blair Snurtburgler : Couple of notes for quicker work flow and less digital looking animation, speaking as not an expert on animation, I just know a fair bit of software. 1. you could have all you detailing done on your model by using a texture and rendering that out as secondary lines, i.e. a texture with all the details on it already. Will look more digital but also give you a real quick representation of where details would go. 2. In Star Wars from 1977 when they shot the models the backdrops of the stars didn't move consistently with the shot, because they didn't have this digital cube maps and all that jazz, but what it brings is a more complex composite movement, as the backdrop either rotates, moves contradictory, or not at all it will simulate gliding, spinning, etc. of a ship with very few means. 3. Dependent on what you have available you could have the lines of your ship thicker based on the angle between the faces the edge has, additionally it could be affected by the depth buffer so things in front have thicker lines. 4. I don't know what you have available, but additionally if your line art exported frames of the 3d model used a drawn line filter to introduce wobbliness, unevenness and slight curves to your exported lines, it would look less digital and sterile. If all else fails I'd use something like Premiere to add some wave warping of subtle sine curves and noise waves pulling on each frame to make the outlines a bit weird. Not entirely sure how to do this in a video editor but using Spatter and Accented Edges (in that order) on black lines on a white background in Photoshop gives a more classic pencil style line. If you're a wiz with automation maybe Photoshop could simply be used. 5. To make things look more 80s or even 90s Channel offset can be your friend, remember how VHS and old media have that red outline smudge on the left of sharp lines and vice versa green on the right? Happens on old film rolls, VHS, anything not digital, can really help sell the classic look if you do it right. Just doing slightly subtle in your video editor afterwards can do wonders. Usually called channel offset or RGB offset, but buzzwords like VHS can help find tutorials too. Hope that helps you or anybody else.

Huemaster : Otaking saves Anime! More news at 10.

Kayinworks : This is awesome. I remember reading about Guilty Gear XRDs methods for faking 2d with 3d. A lot of it isn't applicable because it's game engine technology and some things like "lowing the FPS" might not be desirable but one note was using mesh distortions pretty much every frame to break up the perfection of the 3d model juuuust a little bit to break up that out of place 3d perception.

OtaKing77077 : Apologies for my scratchy ASMR voice on this! I was just getting over a nasty cold and could barely roll out of bed when I recorded it. I hope you like it anyway.

Rodrigo Blej : seen blender greasepencil?

Friendly Metroid : That is a fantastic process. Still... Workflow. Optimization. Needed. There must be a way to intelligently fill a bound area. Adobe is all over this kind of thing.

Tangent Tang : Before I started watching: Well it must be some fancy celluloid style cartoon shader for 3D software now where's the download link? After watching this: Holy sh- that's serious skill!

id104335409 : I bowed down so deep for the King, my nose bled for the rest of the day!

Julian HG : Holy moly just found your channel, this is the first vid ive seen and within 2mins i've had to pause and subscribe and write this comment. I love this already! and when you showed the clip of your ship with the gorgeous light beams coming from it - WOW. wonderful stuff, can't wait to explore your content more. lol i've had two coffees so i'm a bit chatty!.. appologies! cheers o/

Maxime Beaudoin : In my opinion the only problem is the camera movement. Its to dynamic. Most old anime have mat paintings with a static camera and a moving object. What you're doing is amazing tho. And i have a question, for the shading, couldn't you have just used traking software to have it move with the model instead of drawing every frame?

Adam Ross : The ship looks killer! Getting some wiggle on your 3d line drawing will make it feel a lot more hand drawn. If you have After Effects you can use turbulent displacement to simulate a hand drawn wiggle. I would also recommend you diving more into multi pass rendering out of C4D. You can save a lot of time filling in flat colors with some object buffer passes or even an rgb matte.

elbrigado : take your like good man

FUCK YOU LIFE! ! : Calls it crappy, 99% better than what I see and draw

lddevo88 : Absolutely amazing rotoscoping and texture work here, the one thing I would add to help blend it all together is a subtle film grain and maybe even organic lens flares to mesh all these elements together. Also you could finesse the camera movements in Cinema 4D to make it feel less robotic. Other than that this is brilliant work of a classic aesthetic reacreation with modern technology!

Nicosarea : Holy crap... great job! This looks amazing!!

Mulletmanalive : I think that if you could do like you can in blender and applied a layer of grippling and grime to the ship, but then rendered it separately with a focal distance blur, you could then composite it on and do a light paint over after the base shading to get more of that detail that we see old shots. Also, you need to tweak your settings in 4d; the lines seem too consistent across the frame to be hand drawn, as an artist would try to put varied strokes as they worked. Is there a way to quickly distort the thickness of you highlight and darks lines in your paint program? The only other thing I can think of is the smoothness of the motion of the camera; CG tends to look fake because nothing in nature is ever that smooth.. Tiny vibrations would help a lot. There IS also the possibility that your missing something to approximate the natural atmospherics effect caused by stacked cells on the nearer vs farther objects... Worth playing around with, perhaps a very slight blur and a lightening/desaturation. Anyway, bloody impressive implementation, to the point where it's really on the edge of that classic look.

Maru Misu : There needs to be line variability. Line RNG for color inconsistency, wiggle, size and line fading/blending. Also needs to be RNG for the texture rendering. The textures in anime are basically cell-shaded, but I do think there is some blending of two colors, especially with the bad video quality/blurriness/and probably marker bleeding or whatever they use to color them. Definitely try blurring the silhouette and see what that does. Sometimes I even think anime is rendering shadows incorrectly or even shadows that aren't even there, which would add even more variables to your rendering. You've definitely gotten closer than most anime artist today.

TikiShootah : 1:40 says he starts off by making a really really basic model. Then cuts to a low poly masterpiece 😓

HowlingMoonCinemas : All these people talking about making objects to look more 2-D than 3-D to make them look more anime-like... Ridiculous. 80's & 90's animes were just as 3-D as plenty of material in CGI animations. The main reason why anime 3-D looks so much better though, is because of EXAGGERATION at special key points. It also has to do with the way they animate. 80's & 90's Anime used both choppy and fluent animation to express both realism and dynamic speed, in which each frame of animation became more pronounced and visually noticeable. Disney has the fullest animations in the world, but, I noticed old Disney animations are very, very boring, not just by their extremely simple art style, lack of both detail, shading and rich color, but by their unnecessary, over-animated style (one becomes too accustomed to the very fluent animation over such a lengthy period of time and it becomes boring). Disney also wastes a lot of time trying to fully animate the most boring of details, like in their speech-animating and in simple breathing - very unnecessary and easily goes unnoticed. Anime makes no such mistake on that and instead only makes a minimum of animations for that, mainly showing only what should be emphasized.

krux02 : If you would like to have a non fake looking style I would suggest to export points only, not the entire shape and then connect them by hand. Then you have a real hand drawn appearance but you still have the perspective correctness. When you keep the 3D result always separated from the hand drawn model, you can also update the points with more detail, for example you could add the antenna in the 3D model and use it instantly as guidelines. But for this workflow, I would really suggest to render some one color materials and multiply the image with the line rendering. That way you can safe some manual filling. About the Antialiasing. I would turn it off in the renderer and apply it as a post process. Filling areas is much easier and more correct when the the lines are not yet anti aliased. Or you can leave the anti aliasing job for the youtube compression algorithm.

Kass : What you're looking for to get that anime feel you're after is to do postprocessing on the shots you have. If you know how old anime is drawn you'll understand that because they're drawn with watercolours traditionally on paper they're limited in resolution and have a lot of texture to them. As insane as it sounds I'd recommend downscaling your shots and upscaling them again to cause the lines to blur giving the whole thing more of a dated footage feel instead of crisp digital 3d like you have now. I'd also look into having your ships contrast more with the background as a general rule of thumb. One more tip I'd also give to get the dated look you're after would be to avoid solid black colours and have them more gray since those solid black colours look very digital and intense and were never that strong in old anime.

BainesMkII : When Arc System Works created Guilty Gear Xrd Sign, in addition to tweaking bone scaling and positioning for what looks "right" rather than what would be physically accurate, they also intentionally introduced minor errors so that it wouldn't look too smooth. On a different note, you could probably shave a little production time with a different rendering method. I don't know about the software you are using, but with other 3D modelling programs you could at least combine the line rendering with rendering your base material color choices. That might would also let you get away with sticking a bit more (carefully chosen) detail onto your model, which could save a bit more drawing time later.

Omeganinjaboy : Make the framerate randomly shift up and down a bit. I know Transformers The Movie had an extremely varied framerate from shot to shot and even in the same scene. This will make it less smooth. OR rather keep the frame rate the same but show the same frame for several frames at times.

Raimar Lunardi : Using 3D the right way! Nice job! too bad today they have less than a day to make such animations like those...

gododoof : Wonderful. Hope you do more of these.

finnigan16 : Amazing job!!! Please keep the tutorials coming!!!

Some Random Anon : We'll never see anime like this ever again. It's quite sad really. Which is why all existing 80's and 90's anime must be preserved for future generations.

〈Clex〉 : Oh wow I though every frame would’ve been hand drawn

jon Sprog : Really awesome!

Paperbag Animator : Great video! Super helpful. I'd say one thing that could help give you a more authentic '2D' feel is removing every second drawing so that it all animates on 2's. Also cuts the workload in half!

Tropical Wargaming : I have to congratulate you. Your animation looks more fluid than many commercial anime I watch. Look at the recent Fist of the North Star anime, totally lack of frames in the render.

James Rustles : You don't need to simulate dust and scratches on every frame. Just record your animation onto a VHS tape and record it back into your computer. That would probably cover up the digital fakeness as well.

mazimadu : Better 3D than BERSERK!

Takkik : Interesting. Big issue that make it look 'fake' it's the 3D lines, they are too perfect. Even 2D animation suffer from that (before computer lines were more sketchy). Hard way redraw them, or find a filter to add some imperfection. Another thing, old anime design love curved surfaces and weird lens effects. Ideas to speed up : Why not render a light/shadow pass (perhaps with some basic material settings) and use it as a guideline for colorize? You could paint and apply some basic 2D textures for surface details and render it on a separate layer. That could help you to speed up the drawing phase.

Renato Ferreira : omg...i love you dude

Min Lungelow : This is crazy and I love it. It still looks very clean, but it doesn't look like CGI. This technique really blends the benefits of CGI with the charm of hand drawn stuff imo. The hand drawn details and the hand done shading goes a long way towards getting rid of that weird look that CGI gets.

DragonSkyRunner : 13:20 It's certainly far closer than most (is there anyone else legitimately trying?) to trying to emulate the style, but I think the things that are adding to the "Fake and digital" look, The rendered linework obviously has perfect motion and uniformity by design, if there's some way to ever so slightly randomize the line placement and thickness between frames, and add a touch of line wobble where it'd probably be free-handed, (as well as not having any line corners be sharp, because pens can't really do that) that'd make it look far more hand drawn. The line thickness especially, it's night and day with non-animated drawings the difference adding varying lineweight does in comparison to having uniform line thicknesses. Everything looks hyper sharp, like digital artwork tends to. While that makes working with it far easier, even 4K scanned old anime has a hint of softness to it, probably mostly because of the film the cels and backgrounds are composited on. Adding film grain and scratches may help to that end, but usually in a restoration job the latter is what you're trying to avoid at all costs. I assume you sample colours straight from old anime, but for some reason despite that all of your stuff looks really digitally sharp and harsh in the colour department, while old anime has a softness to its colours, whether that's because of the linework influencing that or not I'm not entirely sure. There's also the fact that physical paint is only 99.99% uniform unlike the fill bucket tool, despite the best efforts of the colourists in the 80's and 90's, not to any point that anyone would be consciously able to tell, but enough that when it is absolutely perfect it feels off. Maybe add a slight cel shadow as well? I see people who do that tend to go a tad overboard, but if done subtely it does add a lot to the feeling of physical cels. I think going out and either looking at cels physically or buying your own if you don't have some already would do wonders to trying to match the look. I hope for the best for future endeavors and that we can see more of this kind of stuff from both you and anyone else who'd try and take up the mantle.

Carl Du : Amazing!

Rodney Krezek : I grew up with the old school late 70's & 80's anime, and I gotta say I really like the way you hybridize the use of 3D animation with some more traditional hand drawn elements. It sells the shot and gives a nice clean look at the same time. Its probably why I love the new Yamato 2199 / 2202 series. I suspect they did a lot of what your showing here just with studio grade resources behind them. But what I really am interested in is that basic 3D model to a really nice 2D pencil outline Sketch and toon. I love 3D inked lines like you see in the Palladium Books Robotech RPG. Kevin Long was a master at hand drawing those. I might have to acquire Cinema 4D just for this alone. Not for actually animating anything, but to cheat and draw something I couldn't normally do by hand. Thanks for this.

must enter : Your work is certainly nice but your workflow is needlessly over complicated. If you MAKE THE DECISION to add extra elements JUST GO BACK to MODEL THEM. You use 3d after all. A complex 3d model can look stunning in toon shader if you can set it up properly. If you use Arnold which is easy as heck and is integrated best to my knowledge in C4d, you can get all sort of professional looks. Check out its documentation. Also you can render your models with color so no need to go in and add color frame by frame. You have a lot of flickering since you decided to add panel lines in 2d. Again that would not happen with proper setup. Lights and all sort of lens flare effects are easier to add with a compositing package unless you love the straggle to paint stuff frame by frame. https://docs.arnoldrenderer.com/display/A5AFMUG/Toon ps.: sorry fro my caps lock playing up. Keep up the good work.

LE MUSICIEN : This video is the sole definition of the word Patience

Gōdon Gurando : You can reduce the framerate to make the spaceship less 3D. (old comment) Self-correction: That comment I wrote was stupid. Reducing frame rate makes the animation weirder and quicker. I used to make stop motion animations and I had not many frames due to time. I always delayed the frame to make the animation not quick like a stupid slide presentation. So deleting some frames and delaying the other frames to make the 3D animation looks 2D.